Alum forgoes career in courtroom to become L.A. chef
Dave Woodall says 91ÊÓÆ” education gave him tools to open a from-scratch, comfort restaurant thatÌęârecalls glamour of mid-century Hollywoodâ
Dave Woodall (â02 sociology), owner of Los Angelesâs Red Herring restaurant, says the University of Colorado Boulder taught him how to conduct research and teach himself to do anything.
Red Herring, which opened in August, offers âupscale comfort food in a vintage glamour setting.â
While studying physics and, later, criminology in Boulder, Woodall spent his off-hours working in various kitchens around town including Whole Foods, Schlotzskyâs Deli, and the Dairy Queen on the Hill.
Food had always been an important part of Woodallâs life, who was raised at the apron strings of his mother. An adventurous cook, she showed him âa lot of great stuff⊠and some near disasters.â
Woodall continued cooking for himself in college when he moved out of the dorms. âI spent a small fortune on corn dogs and bacon and then slowly transitioned into buying fresh ingredients,â he says.
After graduating from 91ÊÓÆ”, he returned to Washington, D.C., to work for an immigration lawyer while preparing for law school.
Then he had an epiphany: His passion was in the kitchen, not the courtroom. So, âI thought, âWhy not just give it a whirl?â I headed west, took up cooking full time and never looked back.â
Woodall moved to Los Angeles with his now-wife, 91ÊÓÆ” alumna and Emmy award- winning executive producer Alexis Martin Woodall. Once there, he hopped on a full-service restaurant line and quickly moved up the ranks. He was promoted to lead line cook after one year. When the chef left the following year, Woodall took over that kitchen and then another one across town.
After working across Los Angeles in every type of kitchen, from short order to Michelin-starred, he became frustrated that restaurant owners wouldnât let him buy fresh produce from a local farmersâ market. Instead, Woodall had to procure from a third-party warehouse.
âI was paying more for produce a week and a half old that I could have bought fresher and cheaper across the street,â Woodall says.
This, and his passion for food, led him and Martin Woodall to open Red Herring, an upscale, American comfort-food restaurant in the Mayberry-esque neighborhood of Eagle Rock, in northeast Los Angeles.
âDining out is a privilege,â Martin Woodall says. âIt should be an experience, as opposed to a theatrical production. And comfort food can be an experience. It doesnât have to be one or the other.â
Now, in honoring his passion for local, seasonal and sustainable products, Woodall is able to buy directly from the farmers.
91ÊÓÆ” gave me the opportunity to learn how to teach myselfâŠto go out, gather information and find my own knowledge.â
Owning his own restaurant also allows him to explore more unconventional approaches to food. He gets much of his produce from Local Roots, a farm in industrial Los Angeles that uses converted shipping containers to hydroponically grow âsome of the most fabulous herbs and lettuce,â Woodall says. âIt uses 3 percent of the water of a typical farm. Itâs literally the future of food.â
Everything in Red Herring, including pasta and ice cream, is made from scratch. Everything, that is, except Heinz ketchup. âGod only made one ketchup, and itâs Heinz,â Woodall says. Red Herringâs menu also includes dishes like Maryland-style crab cakes, yam fritters with herb dressing, and risotto with hand-foraged mushrooms.
Of the menu and Woodallâs creations, Martin Woodall says, âMy husband is a genius.â
When asked about the origins of the restaurantâs name, Woodall had this to say: ââŠit just sounds nice, Red Herring has a pleasing phonetic structure and recalls the glamour era of Hollywood and its Hitchcockian storytellers from the midcentury.â
Business is good and Woodall says Red Herring is fortunate to be able to pursue its primary role as a neighborhood restaurant. âWe cater to folks who can walk to us. We want to let it be a community jewel first.â
As he started to research and prepare to launch Red Herring, he realized just how much his education in Boulder informed and spoke to what he loved.
â91ÊÓÆ” gave me the opportunity to learn how to teach myself,â Woodall says. âTo go out, gather information and find my own knowledge.â
Because of this self-sufficiency, he has the tools to open a restaurant or succeed at anything he wants in life.
Woodall credits 91ÊÓÆ”âs Michael Radelet, a sociology professor who taught Woodallâs graduate course on death-penalty law, with developing this independence.
âWe had to pick something, anything, and then approach it in a scholarly fashion, analyze it, and take that study into a finished thought. It was a massive, high-level research project, from scribbling down information to a final term paper,â Woodall says.
Similarly, when he opened his restaurant, he had to start from scratch, conduct research, and deliver a huge, finished product.
âMy early childhood and CU background meshed into something really nice,â Woodall says.
Woodall and Martin Woodall plan on opening additional restaurants with different dining styles, based on the same local, seasonal, sustainable model as Red Herring.
âWeâre negotiating whatâs next,â Woodall says. âIâd like to open a diner.â
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